Mt Hood: The Deadliest Mountain in Oregon
Jeff Garmire
Mt. Hood sees more than 10,000 climbers attempting to summit each year. But with 46 deaths since 2002 and at least 150 total recorded deaths, it is one of the deadliest mountains in the Cascades. The mountain stands at 11,250 feet, houses 11 glaciers, and after a tame initial ascent, suddenly turns technical for the final few pitches.
The first ascent of the mountain took place on August 14, 1845, by Sam Barlow, Joel Palmer and Phillip Locke. The summit has seen badgers, bears, elk, and weddings. Five ski resorts live on the mountain, including Timberline Lodge Ski Area, which has the only year-round ski season in North America.
Mt. Hood is the most visited snow-covered peak in America and threatens climbers with rockfall in the late summer and unpredictably changing Pacific Northwest weather throughout the year. Most climbers attempt to summit between mid-April and mid-July. The limited timeframe helps mitigate the two most significant risks on the high point of Oregon: falls and hypothermia.
The 6.8-mile most popular southern route leaves from Timberline ski area, beginning with a relatively tame ascent from the historic lodge. After leaving the groomed slopes and climbing Palmer Glacier, Crater Rock becomes visible. In good weather, this waypoint is visible through most of the climb and is close to where the real mountaineering begins.
Hogsback, with its sharp ridge, connects Crater Rock to one of two summit routes. The majority of falls and injuries occur when ascending the Pearly Gates. The other popular summit alternative route is up the Old Chute. The crux of the climb is the ascent up one of these two final pitches. In the winter, the Pearly Gates is the preferred route by climbers. In the warmer months, and when the Bergschrund opens, most climbers opt for the Old Chute variation to avoid the crevasse.
Each year Portland Mountain Rescue completes about 15 missions to save on average 70 hurt or lost people on Mt. Hood. While far from the most technical, the volume of Mt. Hood’s accidents can be primarily traced to popularity and inexperience. Oregon is the sixth most dangerous state for mountaineering deaths.
It is not uncommon in the late spring months to have a long line of people waiting at the Old Chute or Pearly Gates. With it being the first glaciated summit for many, the breadth of experience varies for those reaching the final pitches. Already susceptible to rock and icefall, it is not the mountain that induces most injuries or accidents, but the weather and fellow climbers.
The second deadliest alpine ascent in North American history took place on Mt. Hood in 1986. Seven students and two faculty members from the Oregon Episcopal School died on the mountain during the tragedy. After attempting to summit despite an impending storm, when the group finally turned back, they were off course. They took refuge in a snow cave to weather the night before two members of the party made it back to Timberline lodge. Despite the emergence of the two members, search and rescue could not pinpoint the location of the missing party’s snow cave. Blizzard conditions battered the rescue efforts.
The rescue effort consisted of over 150 people and took place over three days. The attempt was hampered by whiteout conditions and numerous equipment and gear failures. When the weather eventually broke, the cave was found with survivors still huddled inside. A 1981 avalanche that killed 11 on Mt. Rainier is the only alpine accident that claimed more lives in North American history.
The varied history of the prize of Oregon along with its convenient location near the largest city in the state, lend the peak to a vastly skewed ratio of technicality to necessary rescue efforts.
Rising use and popularity and its relation to rescues has been a recent trend across the country, and Mt. Hood is no different. Between the limited peak months, being the high point of a state, and the easy access to a large metropolis, the peak bagging destination’s popularity will only continue to grow.
